“What makes a tour great? Any tour—what makes it great?” Amnon asked our group. I love when he asks questions, because he uses the dramatic pause. Very classic storytelling component. The pause is like white space in a graphic—it allows for reflection and interpretation. I dig it.
After the pause, Amnon answers the question. “What makes a tour great is not the tour guide, not the places,” he says motioning like an umpire. “It’s the tourist and what the tourists take in—the sounds, the smells, what they take in with their senses.” I like to think most of us already were using our five senses as we walked the stony and rocky land of Jerusalem, but just in case I was sleeping, I did a cleansing breath and renewed mine.

You are the Tour
When it comes to Jerusalem, there is so much to absorb. I have not experienced New York City outside of John F. Kennedy airport, but if there is a city in my mind that doesn’t sleep, it’s Jerusalem. At 8 a.m. in the morning the streets are filled with compact Mazdas, Mitsubishis and BMWs, Mercedes-Benz tour buses and taxicabs, bicycles, and pedestrians (lots of pedestrians). Merchants pop out of shrubbery and stone walls flashing beaded handbags with Jerusalem stitched on the side and hats. They beckon for you to spend your dollars. There was a jewelry merchant who got on our bus and ended up riding with us to our next destination, because people wanted the necklaces he was selling.
Walking through the Armenian Quarter, we heard a young man playing a soothing tune on his guitar. Another young man was touching up a colorful mural. Orthodox Jewish men quickly bustle past you on the street taking long intentional strides and speaking Hebrew on their cell phones. We could smell chicken cooking in preparation for the lunch crowd. Passing by juice bars and cafes, you hear multiple languages engaging in conversation as they clink spoons, coffee cups and lunch plates.
Entering the Jewish Quarter and walking toward the temple remains, we heard celebratory drums and cheerful calls. Passing by not too far ahead of us was a 13-year-old Jewish boy wearing a robe and prayer shawl. Today was his bar mitzvah. He will read from the Torah scroll for the first time. From this point on, he is now responsible for his actions.
What Your Ears Fear
Today, we entered the gate to go to King David’s Tomb. When we were all outside the gate, Amnon pointed to the wall—bullet holes. This wasn’t the first time Amnon had shown us bullet holes. But every time, it reminds me that in the United States, outside of the September 11 terrorist attacks, we don’t live with a reality that terror could come flying through our living room window. That is exactly what happened during the uprising in the 1980s when shots unexpectedly entered homes on the border of the West
Bank across from Bethlehem. We couldn’t go to Bethlehem, and no tours have gone there in years, because of the religious and political conflict. To take pictures of the birthplace of Jesus we stood at a roadside observation point. A group of kids ride by. “Go home!” they shouted. After hearing about how some Palestinian children were used as suicide bombers in previous a few of us shared a thought that crossed our mind: “Are they suicide bombers?”
Walking throughout Jerusalem you will see Israeli police or military carrying military rifles. It looks very similar to an AK-47. They stay on alert. We were eating in cafes and shopping and someone would casually be walking with a military rifle. It puts you in a different mindset.
What Your Eyes Believe
At each tourist site you pass the incoming group and the outgoing tour. It is interesting to observe the various reactions from people, particularly those who are Catholic, Moslem or any of the various Jewish sects. The life of Christ intrigues so many, but not all for the same reason. There are few who leave what are called Holy Places stone-faced. Others leave reflective. And others are moved to an outward emotional response, often tears, praying or kneeling. From my perspective, our tour remained reflective and worshipful. Our security guard, Jonathan, told me that our group was his favorite.
Our tour bus definitely knew how to laugh and enjoy; we even had a song. But this isn’t what made us Jonathan’s favorite: “To see how the places affected you—your passion for what you were seeing and hearing—moved me spiritually. It made those places mean more to me,” he said.
Today is Sunday—usually considered the Christian day of rest—and we had a brief service in the Church of Bethesda. Bishop Keith A. Butler led us in worship songs and scriptures. After, we all moved to the outside grounds where we saw the centuries old ruins of the original pool of Bethesda mentioned in John 5:2-8. Jesus performed a miracle for a man on the Sabbath (Shabbat). I like what Pastor Sean R. Moore shared about the passage: “Sometimes, it seems like someone else is always beating you to the punch,” he said. “But here we see that Jesus shows up on the scene Himself to perform a miracle.”

crucifixion. In Hebrew, Golgotha means skull. The path, called Via Dolorosa, is also a bazaar with numerous merchants. Along the path are stations, which reference scriptures in the
Bible, such as when Jesus fell. At Station No. 1 Amnon tells us “The entire way: Not 100 percent. Some of it is tradition. But some of it is fact.” He warns us to stay close together and do our best to keep with the group. Pastor Moore confirms: “It is easy to get lost. You can stop to take one picture and lose the group just like that.”
Our group continued walking. We came to a doorway that stated that this was the station where Simon helped Jesus carry His cross, because He had fallen again. By this point, I don’t know how Jesus was even able to keep moving; nonetheless, carry the cross. He had been whipped, beaten, and slapped. Let’s not forget, on His head was a crown of thorns (I saw the actual plant the Romans made the crown of thorns from and to put it simply, the thorns
are no joke—very sharp to the touch). All I thought, “He kept going. He kept going.” We kept going.
brought to mind the scriptures that talk about the throngs of people and multitude that would encompass Jesus. I, also, wondered if the crowd was like this while Jesus hung on the cross. Still, centuries later people are pushing close to get close to Jesus.
crucifixion.




Imagining Jesus sweating drops of blood in Gethsemane definitely stirred up my spirit. Our next stop was the Western Wall or Wailing Wall. Because it was Shabbat, it was crowded. Many people were entering. Different sects of Jews entered as well as tourists from other countries. Amnon explained that the temple was destroyed many years ago, but the Western Wall remains. There rests the Divine Presence of God. He told us that we could write our wishes on a slip of paper and place them in the wall. “After a time, your wishes will come true,” Amnon said.
Many of us, about 80, were seated in the stony waiting section of the baptismal area. People were singing worships songs and some were taking pictures in their white baptismal robes.
A new day and a full day in Israel – Woohoo! Well, not so woohoo—before we left the hotel, I almost tore up the room trying to find my cash that I thought I lost. I knew I had carefully placed it away the night before so I knew I had it, but couldn’t remember where I put it. A few hours later the Holy Ghost showed me where I put it. Now … woohoo!
Our guide Amnon described Capharnaum as Jesus’ home base. It is mentioned several times in the scriptures. It is where Jesus met Peter, James and John and told them, “You will be fishers of men.” On
site were remains from the 1st century B.C./A.D. We saw the Star of David and the Christmas star carved into stone right next to each other. Amnon in his inquisitive teacher tone asked, “Why are the Jewish symbol and the Christian symbol right next to each other?” A few mumbles went among us about the answer. He told us that neither symbol was a religious symbol. He said the religious symbol of Israel was the seven-candle Menorah and not the Star of David. You learn something new every day … particularly in my situation.

Speaking of blessed—we came to the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount found in Matthew 5. You know it: Blessed are those who dot dot dot. Yes, I have read it and heard it many times, but standing on the mountain looking at the Sea of Galilee it became a breath of fresh air. Pastor Sean R. Moore described as “how are attitude should be.” What was renewed in me was that blessings are promises of being in a partnership and relationship with God.
Driving to Caesarea, our tour guide Amnon told our group (called the Yellow group) that the road we were traveling was the Road to Damascus. Tel Aviv presented itself to be a modern city—neon lights, marketing billboards, and high rises. We stopped at an urban mall for lunch. Yes! Authentic Israeli Mediterranean food. I had a turkey shawarma wrapped in warm, pillowy pita with creamy chickpea hummus and crunchy cabbage. Is your mouth watering? Mine is just recalling it. So fresh and delicious. And let me say, eating with your hands is the best. Just use sanitizer.
Without a microphone we could clearly hear Bishop from the stage as he read the passage from his smartphone. From time to time I know I am slow to catch on to things, but as he was reading, it hit me: “I’m here. I’m in Israel.” Hearing the scriptures and look around the theater and the surrounding grounds, it happened: The Bible took on a new life.


are they just words we throw out to make things sound better … make ourselves feel better?